Morocco – Zawiya Ahansal, Middle Atlas Mountains
There are certain countries that we are drawn to as travelers and others we are repelled by and others which evoke a feeling of indifference- this was Morocco for me. However, to my surprise Morocco overwhelmed my senses with it’s harsh contrasts in people and landscapes.
This trip took us far from the Moroccan tourist circuit to the region of one of the oldest zawiyas (holy center) in Morocco. Located in the Middle Atlas Mountains, the westernmost of three Atlas Mountain chains, which defines a large plateau basin extending eastward into Algeria. Blanketed in snow throughout the winter they are home to extensive Atlas cedar forests, freshwater lakes, mountain springs and the Barbary Macaque – an endangered primate.
Despite its seemingly remote location Zawiya Ahansal was established on the original caravan route over the Atlas Mountains from Timbuktu and quickly became a center for learning and knowledge. Ironically, today, it is the second poorest region in Morocco measured by its extremely high illiteracy rates, complete lack of healthcare, and continued subsistence living.
After a long, and often nail biting, 6 hour drive from Marrakesh we finally caught a glimpse of our destination- Amzeray in the region of Zawiya Ahansal. The contrasting verdant green valley floor seemed to give life the brown, inhospitable mountain bases.
Hotel Dar Ahansal http://darahansal.net/ is the only hotel among the four villages in the region. Run local mountain guide Yousseff Oulcadi the hotel is the perfect spot from which to base your exploration. The rooms are tastefully decorated with local rugs and tiles, and the food is the best you will eat anywhere in Morocco.
Bringing our experience even more to life was Cloe Erickson, an American architect who fell in love with the region and people on a climbing trip in 2003. Since then Cloe has personally been responsible for a variety of community development projects including renovation of the historic Igherms , grassroots mid-wife program, and providing community centers which provide a variety of community outreach. She recently founded the Atlas Cultural Foundation www.atlasculturalfoundation to further support the local efforts.
Following the Ahansal River upstream you eventually arrive at the small community of Taghia, accessible only by foot or donkey. This isolated community, famous, only to select climbers, for its stunning and expansive limestone cliffs, marks the original settlement due to its proximity to the abundant water source flowing out of the limestone cliffs. The valley floor from Amzerzy to Taghia is terraced fields yielding small crops of winter wheat and corn, and small orchards produce figs, apples, almonds, walnuts and peaches.
Some 80km away is the next significant valley of Ait Bouguemez. Known by locals as the ‘happy valley’, Ait Bouguemez sits in a broad, lush valley at the base of North Africa’s second highest mountain Jbel M’Goun (4069 m). As a result of it’s proximity to the high mountains this valley has become a jumping off point for climbers and trekkers wanting to explore the Middle Altas. Peppered throughout the valley one can find several comfortable hotels and small gites.
La Casbah du Mgoun http://www.hotel-ait-bouguemez.com an old Casbah, as the name indicated, sits perched high and mighty in the middle of the valley. The rooms are very basic but overall it is the best option in this valley for it’s views and communal atmosphere.
On the drive back to Marrakesh the mountains quickly turn to hills, and the hills slowly fade into expansive plains, as you are drawn into the two distinct worlds of old and new in Marrakesh.
